|
|
Changes to basic cheesecake batter composition, mid-2015
When
I started making lower-fat cheesecakes back in the 1980's, I utilized
a recipe inside a cookbook from the American Heart Association. That
recipe's batter contained the following ingredients:
Lowfat cottage cheese
Margarine—which I later replaced with butter
Eggs
Granulated sugar
Skim milk
Flour
Salt
Lemon juice
Lemon rind (peel)
When I resumed making cheesecakes—which was around
2009—I was no longer using lemon peel as a base ingredient (I still
used this one for lemon cheesecakes). As the next few years went by,
I also removed lemon juice as a base ingredient, due primarily to my
starting to use a new cheese ingredient—yogurt cheese—which,
like lemon juice, had tart characteristics. I also eliminated skim milk at
some point. The salt was, somewhere along these years, removed as well. So
these changes left the following remaining "original"
ingredients:
Lowfat cottage cheese
Butter (formerly margarine)
Eggs
Granulated sugar
Flour—of which I used various types, such as whole wheat and, more
recently, unbleached all-purpose
New additions to the base ingredient list, based largely on my plain
cheesecakes, were—within the past few years:
Yogurt cheese
Vanilla
Arrowroot
The "cheese base" in particular had undergone changes. This used
to be only cottage cheese. More recently, yogurt cheese has taken over
this slot, although I would use a blend of both yogurt and cottage cheeses
for cheesecake flavors that I felt should not be highly tart. For plain
and citrus flavors, I would go solely with yogurt cheese. A cookbook from
Health Valley, Cooking Without Fat by George Mateljan, turned me on
to this ingredient as well as arrowroot.
However, after my somehow losing some satisfaction over a number of my
latest cheesecakes, including Prototype 12 of my plain-flavored ones, I
felt that another update was warranted.
I have come a long way since that initial American Heart Association
recipe. Over the last few years, I have researched a number of more
conventional, traditional, full-fat, cream-cheese-based cheesecake
recipes. What I have found was a typical, popular base set of ingredients
among them:
Cream cheese
Eggs
Granulated sugar
Vanilla
Of particular importance was that cream cheese generally contained
stabilizers and/or thickeners such as:
Xanthan gum
Locust bean gum
Guar gum
I myself tried using xanthan gum in a number of recipes, but often with
unsatisfactory results (maybe I used too much?).
Lately, I saw potential in more closely paralleling my lower-fat cheesecakes
with their higher-fat counterparts. The basic batter list that I had been
working with in recent times consisted of the following:
Yogurt cheese (sometimes also with cottage cheese)
Butter
Eggs
Granulated sugar
Flour (such as all-purpose)
Vanilla
Arrowroot
So I reasoned that eliminating the butter would bring my list more in parallel
with the conventional, higher-fat lineup. However, the two cheeses—cottage
and yogurt—did not have enough stability like typical cream cheese.
Hence this called for ingredients like all-purpose flour and arrowroot.
But I felt that instead of using both of these two items, I would go
solely with the Health-Valley-recommended arrowroot, which seemed to be a
more efficient (and hopefully better-tasting) stabilizer than all-purpose flour.
The resulting list for my new batter base would be:
Yogurt/cottage cheese
Arrowroot (to help stabilize the cheese)
Eggs
Granulated sugar
Vanilla
Compare the conventional list:
Cream cheese (with its own stabilizers)
Eggs
Granulated sugar
Vanilla
So my new composition was down to 5 simple ingredients. It was with
Prototype 13 of my plain cheesecake—the batter, to be more specific—that
my usage of this lineup has gotten its debut in this recipe scrapbook series
(I added more cooking time as well with this prototype).
I continued making changes in my plain cheesecakes by simply adding
another egg for
Prototype 14.
Not only would this return the
egg-to-cheese-base ratio to what it was in earlier days, but also
make the cheesecake more stable (hopefully) and
contribute further to simplification: 1 egg (as well as 1 tablespoon of
arrowroot) for every 8 ounces of cheese base.
However, I made a fairly bold move with
Prototype 15!
Okay, I admit that I have seeking to bake lower-fat alternatives to cream
cheese cakes. However, there were times when the cheese cultures from
the cottage and yogurt cheeses still did not seem to quite work out well
enough. So I thought that I would include at least some cream cheese
in the mix. More specifically, I decided to take a chance with Neufchatel
cheese—often referred to as "light cream cheese". Due to
the lighter nature of this cheese, the fat would not surge too much (keep
in mind that butter was no longer being used in the batter base
ingredients at this point).
With this move, Prototype 15 would actually get three kinds of
cheese—yogurt, cottage and Neufchatel (yogurt would still dominate
over the two others). The goal was to attain the right balance of sweetness,
tartness and "cheese-iness".
I wanted to ensure more firmness, so I added still more baking time as
well. |
|
|
|